Exploring the Adriatic: Is Small Ship Cruising for You?
- Wendy Hilberman
- Oct 11, 2024
- 11 min read
Updated: Jan 28
I had been planning our Big Greek Vacation for over a year when our trip to Greece was canceled due to travel restrictions during COVID-19. Two years later when the world opened up again, we decided to look at Croatia instead of Greece. We had heard it was equally beautiful to Greece, more affordable, and a little less touristy. A cruise seemed like the perfect way to see the Adriatic Islands. Big ship, medium-sized ship, or small ship we asked ourselves. We had cruised on several large ships (Carnival, Royal Caribbean, and Norwegian cruise lines) and found the size to be overwhelming for our tastes. For this trip, we were looking for something smaller and less intrusive to the ports we would visit. We narrowed our search to a small ship with under 100 passengers and started looking for one that met our needs for luxury, size, amenities, and itinerary. We loved the idea of the small ship cruise. The casual atmosphere, the small guest count, and the more intimate ports appealed to us.
The Small Ship Details
After some research, we landed on a cruise through Unforgettable Croatia, we booked a 7-night deluxe cruise from Dubrovnik to Split on MV Memories with a VIP Cabin with Private Balcony. We liked the style and age of the ship (built 2020), passenger count (38), itinerary, and price point. The smaller ships can dock directly in ports and marinas for easy access for passengers to enjoy the amenities that these unique small ports offer.
Our Balcony Cabin was approximately 167 square feet and was clean, well equipped, and had a nice seating area with a picture window, and a balcony. The cabin was simple but accommodated our needs just fine. The cabin had nice cubbies, nightstands with drawers, and other nooks and crannies to stow your belongings. Our large suitcases fit nicely under the bed. The closet was sufficient and included space for hanging clothes and upper storage. I promptly requested more hangers, and the staff accommodated with no problem. Honestly, I was worried that I would have no space to unpack my suitcase and was pleasantly surprised that the room accommodated everything efficiently.
The facilities on board the ship include a main deck with a jacuzzi, bar, and lounge chairs. It also includes a second deck with a spacious covered outdoor seating area with comfortable couches and tables. This was the area where you would find fellow passengers reading a book or playing a game. The dining room serves as the hub for the passengers for dining, drinks, and relaxing in the comfortable seating area. For our cruise, this was the area where everyone congregated in the evenings for drinks, music, games, and dancing. None of this was scheduled, it was an organic gathering with people cranking up the music and visiting.
Itinerary Dubrovnik to Split
The Itinerary was well-designed with leisurely breakfasts and swim spots on most days before we deboarded the ship for our day of exploring and tours. We loved the ease of the itinerary, we had time in the mornings for coffee, breakfast, and most days fantastic water play and sports.
Day 1 Dubrovnik, Croatia
We boarded MV Memories at Gruz Harbor in Dubrovnik with the most straightforward and least stressful boarding process in the history of cruising. We just walked on, checked in, and were politely shown to our cabin. No fuss, no waiting in lines, just a warm welcome as we were shown to our cabin and given some details about the ship. We were unpacked in 30 minutes and enjoyed a drink on the upper deck minutes later.
For the first evening, we stayed docked in Gruz Harbor and enjoyed a welcome dinner on board the ship. It was festive, the food was wonderful, and we had the chance to mingle with our fellow passengers. The demographics of the 33 passengers included people from New Zealand, the UK, Canada, and the United States. The ages ranged from young adults to vibrant 70-year-olds. It was a nice mix of people.
Day 2 Slano & Ston, Croatia
We cruised around the walls of the old city of Dubrovnik enjoying the stunning scenery on the upper deck as we headed towards the Elaphiti islands where we dropped the anchor for our first swim spot. Every day aboard MV Memories, the captain found a perfect cove with calm waters for our daily swim. We soon discovered that swim spots are extremely special. Once the captain drops anchor, the swim platform opens, and everyone jumps in! Our ship had kayaks, paddle boards, floats, noodles, and a jet ski. The water was the most beautiful clear blue. Everyone learned on that first day that swim spots are the best time of day. They were one of our favorite parts of the trip.
We arrived in the afternoon at the port of Slano, a charming fishing village on the southern coast of Croatia otherwise known as the Dubrovnik Riveria. The coastline of Slano is a tapestry of stunning beaches, coves, and marinas. The history of Slano dates back to prehistoric times. Once we were docked, we participated in a guided walking tour of the town. We learned about the town's rich history while we wandered the quaint streets. We saw ancient monasteries, churches, and noblemen palaces. This ended up being one of my favorite ports on the trip, Slano was such a special place.
Our afternoon included a trip to Ston, a town known for its oyster production. We took a small boat to an estuary and sampled oysters directly from the sea. They were served with a dash of lime and as fresh as possible. Many of our fellow passengers had never tasted oysters and were surprised at how smooth and delicate they were. My husband and I are huge fans of oysters, so this was a real treat for us. I was missing my splash of Tabasco, but the oysters were so fresh they didn't need anything at all.
Our evening included a lovely dinner aboard the ship. The chef and staff made every meal special. Wine was included with the meals, and it was a great opportunity to sample some local wines. Another treat was the local olive oil that was served with every meal. It was truly fantastic. Olives have been known in Croatia for about 2500 years. Olive oil has become the most important and most valuable export product in Croatia. The significance of olive oil in Croatia is more than just culinary. Olive and olive oil are woven into history, culture, tradition, and way of life.
Day 3 Korčula,Croatia
Our ship left port early in the morning and headed out for a visit to the stunning Mljet National Park. We took a nice walk to the famous salt lakes which were situated in the heart of the park. Our guide set us loose in the park for several hours with a specified time to meet back up at the tinder. My husband and I hiked on the paved trail around the lake and found a rock to sunbathe on and take a leisurely swim. It was gorgeous. The water was warm and refreshing. We made our way back to the tinder and found a great spot for a drink looking out over the water.
Our next stop was the island of Korčula, a small Dalmatian Island of just 276 square kilometres, (30 miles long and 5 miles across). It is a small medieval walled town that was built on the tiny peninsula on the northeast coast of Korčula Island. The town is also known to be referred to as a small Dubrovnik due to its resemblance to the more popular tourist spot.
The design of Korčula's Old Town is remarkable for several reasons. The medieval walled city sits on an oval-shaped swelling of land that points out deep into the Peljesac Channel. The city itself is laid out with a succession of narrow streets that branch off the spine of the main street like a fishbone. The fishbone shape was used in the design of Korčula's Old Town to reduce the effects of wind and sun and provide citizens with shelter and protection. As you walk the streets and wind through the alleys it becomes apparent that the design adds a layer of security and walkability with its unique layout.
Korčula was one of my favorite stops, ok I will warn you, I am going to make that statement a lot. We had a fantastic walking tour with a guide that made the history of the city come alive. Her interesting and exciting narrative gave us a true picture of the history that made this city so special. Korčula also has some great shopping with small boutiques tucked into alleyways, and artisans with unique textures, designs, and wares. The views throughout the city were incredible and the cuisine was some of the best of the entire trip. We had a lovely dinner at a restaurant on the waterfront named Cupido.
Day 4 Vis, Croatia
We departed from Korčula and sailed towards the Island of Vis. The captain dropped anchor in the most beautiful cove and pulled out all the swim toys. We paddleboarded, swam, and hung out in the water for several hours.
We deboarded in the small village of Komiza, which looked like a picture-perfect postcard. The village was stunning. The sandy pebble beach, the colorful fishing boats, and the cobblestone streets created an off-the-beaten-path charm. Cats wandered the street looking healthy and happy. We dined at a restaurant for dinner that overlooked the harbor and served Gradele which is a whole fish seasoned with olive oil, and fresh herbs, and grilled over an open fire. We enjoyed a local white wine that paired with the fish perfectly.
Day 5 Hvar, Croatia
Our cruise continued to the stunning island of Hvar which is renowned for its stunning and fragrant fields of lavender fields. On route, we stopped at Bisevo Island to explore the breathtaking Blue Cave. This is truly a natural marvel, a sea grotto of illuminated light. We were one of the last boats allowed to enter the cave at the end of the day before the passage was closed. You had to lay down flat in the boat as you entered the cave due to its narrow passage. It was exhilarating and scary all at the same time. The time inside the cave was very short and anticlimactic, but stunning, nonetheless.
After exploring the Blue Cave and enjoying a delicious lunch on board, we continued to the peaceful port of Stari Grad in Hvar. On arrival, we boarded a bus and headed out for a private wine-tasting tour at a local winery. We were sat in the cellar of the winery and provided with a leisurely tasting of 6 different wines paired with some cheeses and crackers. The pours were generous, and the group was lively with lots of great questions and laughter.
Our evening was free for us to explore the beautiful town of Hvar. We loved the narrow alleyways that wound up and down the town. We popped into a coffee shop with seating in the cobblestone alley where we sipped our cappuccino and took in the sights. We made a reservation at one of the Michelin-rated restaurants in town. Giaxa Restaurant. Giaxa - Have you ever tasted art? The cuisine was lovely, and the outdoor courtyard was a fun experience.
Day 6 Trogir, Croatia
We cruised to the charming medieval town of Trogir a UNESCO-listed gem with its pristine marina that is often compared to a mini-Venice. Honestly, I thought that description was a bit hyped up, but after arriving in Trogir and having visited Venice I can see the comparison. We swam today at one of the most famous beaches in the world, the gorgeous Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn Beach). Every swim spot has been incredible, but the clear blue water made for a perfect day.
After a lovely lunch on board the ship we took a bus to the stunning Krka Waterfalls National Park. WOW.
The wooden paths around the park give you the feeling you are walking on water. It was an incredible experience to enjoy the natural habitat with wildlife, and fauna, and feel and hear the water all around you. We sat down on a bench at a couple of different points to just soak in the beauty of the waterfalls. This national park was unlike any park we had ever experienced. It is a must-see experience.
We returned to Trogir in the early evening with free time to wander the streets and find a great spot for dinner. We walked around for several hours exploring the marina, the live music, and the shops. We finally landed on a pizzeria for dinner and the food was wonderful.
Day 7 Split, Croatia
Today we arrived in Split, the largest port in Croatia. Split, Croatia is the largest town in Dalmatia and the second largest in Croatia. We found Split to be a bustling and vibrant port. The ancient center is like nothing you’ll have seen before, with a whole district taken up by a sprawling Roman palace, going strong after 1700 years. Over the centuries this architecture has been kept intact and then incorporated into newer buildings, like St. Duje’s Cathedral, the heart of which is a 4th-century mausoleum.
The city's historic core is the remnants of the Palace of Diocletian. The city's modern street plan still reflects the palace's original walls, rooms, and hallways 1700 years later. Diocletian’s Palace and the overall culture of Ancient Rome would be the biggest influence on the architecture of Split. Although there was a small settlement in the area before the palace was built called Spalatum, the vast majority of Split’s history from the days of the Roman Empire to about the 15th century revolves completely around Diocletian’s Palace. My Architect husband was fascinated by the Palace and how the city has continued to build and thrive around the original architecture.
After seeing so many beautiful and unique islands during our cruise, Split felt a bit overwhelming and underwhelming at the same time. While the walking tour was interesting, it was hard to hear the tour guide over the crowds and street noise. That said the downtown marina was beautiful and had great options for food, music, and people-watching. We slowly fell in love with Split over a glass of wine and some fantastic food.
Final Impressions
We deboarded the ship with a note of sadness, we had met some incredible people that had instantly become friends. Anthony our first mate, the captain, and the entire crew did a stellar job of building relationships with the passengers and providing outstanding service. The culinary program was creative, fresh, and fairly diverse for the lunches and dinners onboard the ship. Breakfast was a buffet with a nice selection of pastries, eggs, fresh fruit, and protein. Ala carte items like omelets and eggs benedict were prepared by the chef per order. Drinks were available on board through the bar for an additional charge. You could always find fresh water and coffee throughout the day. Our welcome gift included a tote bag and a branded water bottle which came in handy during our trip. At the end of the cruise a detailed bill was provided with instructions on payment, this included a suggestion regarding tipping for the entire crew. We were happy to tip generously to this outstanding crew.
We loved the cruise and found the amenities, staff, itinerary, and cuisine outstanding. The itinerary was well-designed, with a nice mix of activities, sightseeing, and downtime. Unlike large cruise lines, we did not feel rushed in most ports. We could explore at our leisure. Dinners were predominantly in ports and cruise staff were happy to help with reservations for dinners. If you like Michelin-starred restaurants you will find many to choose from in the ports of destination on the Dubrovnik to Split cruise. The cuisine was incredible, reservations are encouraged and for Michelin restaurants, you should make these reservations well in advance.
We have cruised on big ships with numerous restaurants, pools, casinos, bars, spas, shopping, dance clubs, sports courts, etc. MV Memories is a beautiful ship with nice facilities, one dining room, a bar, comfortable cabins, a jacuzzi, and a plunge pool. The ship does not offer evening entertainment; we created our own. It is a simple yet elegant ship, but not a floating city. It has a unique and lovely appeal of its own.
We did find that a small ship encourages its passengers to get to know one another and from the moment you step out for breakfast or a cup of coffee you are in a social zone. So, if you are an introvert be prepared to step outside of your comfort zone and mingle a little. You may find that you meet some incredible people who become friends for life.
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this personal blog are strictly my own and do not reflect those of any organization or entity. I have not received compensation in any form for the content provided. Please see the home page for the full terms & conditions statement.
